Since we started modding the Master System 2 on the previous post, I thought I should go ahead and fix another omission of the system. A freaking power led! How would you know when the system is on without one? Well, that’s an easy fix but, since I already mentioned in the previous post that I don’t like modifying these old consoles in a irreversible way, I decided to go the extra mile and 3d print a new power button with the necessary space to let a led shine through it, so I could save the original part. Link here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4915513
So first thing is first. I already had a bunch of color cycling 5mm leds lying around from my NES mod, so I decided to use one of these as my power led for the SMS2. These are quite fun, since they automatically cycle through many different colors when power is applied.
The way you connect the led is by using 2 pins of this little thingy (which is a Voltage Regulator), which is accessible inside the Master System 2 even without removing the metal shield:
The led fits nicely inside the 3d printed power button that replaced the original one and the pins and wire come out of the side, so it does not affect its usage which is to actually, well, power the system on and on by flipping the switch below it.
And that is all you need to do. Here is a video of the result, in real life it does not shine so brightly and it looks very nice when powered on.
The Master System was SEGA’s answer to the Nintendo Entertainment System’s success but in the early 1980s. While it had some success, especially in Europe, the NES prevailed mostly due to more iconic characters and game designs but also due to the fact that it arrived a bit earlier in most markets. The second iteration of the Master System hardware, the Master System 2, was a cheaper version that lacked a couple of things compared to the original, namely the Sega Card and, most importantly, it could only output video using an RF output. Not ideal. Far from it actually. Funnily enough, the hardware inside can produce the signals needed for composite video and even RGB, but the necessary plugs and wiring were removed from this version.
But today we will fix that! I have all of my retro consoles connected using composite video, with a huge composite video-stereo audio switch and I wanted my newly acquired Master System 2 to be the same. Most mods I saw though required drilling holes in the original plastic body, which I did not want to do (I never do irreversible mods to these old systems). Instead, I decided to use an external small plastic hobby box, attach it on the back of the machine and keep my composite and audio outputs there. The SMS does not produce stereo sound, but I installed 2 RCA jacks connected together so I at least have the option of outputting the same audio from both.
The mod itself is pretty easy to pull off. All you need are the aforementioned RCA female plugs, one 220 uF capacitor, one 100 ohm resistor and a few wires. You need to open up the SMS2 and find the chip marked below:
I have used a white cable for ground, a yellow for audio and a red for video. The white cable is connected to all 3 of the RCA plugs inside the little box, the yellow to the two audio inside and the red, through the resistor and the capacitor to the video RCA as shown below:
You can get the cables out using the RF hole, it’s big enough. I will most likely never use RF anyway.
This is how the final system looks from the back. Works and plays great (much better than RF of course).
A little known fact about the NES is that there are versions of the console that do not support all the controllers out there. The PAL version that came with controllers that have the NES-004E engraved on the back ONLY support controllers with this engraving and nothing else. Controllers from the NTSC version will not work and nor will any knock-off controllers from China.
I recently replaced my controller’s insides with the excellent DIY kit from 8BitDo that turns the original controller into a wireless version that works just as well.
I am using this with the also excellent NES retro receiver and works flawlessly. Since I am using the original chassis and buttons, the feeling is almost identical to the original controller sans the cable. The system worked fine on my PAL NES-E console as well.
But all that changed when I bought a couple of (admittedly very nicely built) knock-off controllers from China. I plugged both on either port on my NES and nothing seemed to work. It would be a huge coincidence for both the controllers to be faulty (I knew the console and both ports worked) so I investigated further.
It turns out that my console only supported NES-004E controllers (the 8bitdo receiver obviously is handling the issue fine). By disassembling the console, I noticed that each controller port was connected to some kind of board which in turn was connected to the main board. These boards had several diodes that obviously prevented other versions of the NES controller to work.
The solution turned out to be surprisingly easy. All one needs to do is bridge all the diodes (essentially bypassing them). You could also remove the whole board and connect the cables directly on the port but I felt this solution was easier to do and more elegant.
This modification is only useful if your NES has this board between each controller port and the main board and you have controllers you want to use that are not recognized. It can also be done in the same way on both ports. Doing this mod does not have any drawbacks, the original controller work just fine. But now, your NES is controller-region-free!
This is the first of a series of old consoles modding posts, some to add functionality and some purely cosmetic. I will start with the simplest of them all, changing the power LED of a Nintendo Entertainment System.
When the NES came out in 1985, electronic power LEDs used colors that were available at the time, red or green ones. Blue LEDs were not around at the time. They were invented relatively recent and they gave their inventors Isamu Akasaki, Hiroshi Amano and Shuji Nakamura, the Nobel prize in 2014.
Changing the NES power LED to blue, in my opinion gives the 80s device a more 21st century feel and it’s super easy to do. All you have to do is unscrew the NES, remove the mainboard and get to the POWER and RESET board on the left. Use a soldering iron to remove the existing LED, while bending it a bit to the back to remove it from the plastic clear channel.
At this point you are ready to put the new LED in. Just be careful with polarity. LEDs, as the D in their name suggests are diodes, which means there is a correct way and a wrong way to put them in the circuit.
The LED symbol shows you the way. The Anode is where you need to use the long leg of the LED (positive) and the Cathode where you use the short one (negative). If you mess it up, it doesn’t hurt anything, but it will not light up, which is the whole point of a LED.
Solder the two legs at the bottom and bend the LED back in the clear channel like in the picture below.
If you get everything correctly and try to power up the NES, you will be greeted with a beautiful LED light. Put back everything and you should be done. Enjoy the 21st century light show!
Since we are all stuck inside for a while, it was inevitable that some projects we would never do, just happen to be a good idea. One of them was making an Amiga 500, my first Amiga model I owned back in the day, out of paper.
The link to the file I used is https://www.docdroid.net/PE7D4vg/amiga-500-ver1-pdf if you feel like making one for yourself. There are also a few different screens of games to put on the screen instead of the Workbench image if you prefer. A mousepad is also included. By the way, I used a simple white elastic band for the mouse cord. I think it looks great. The guy who makes these has also made paper models of MANY MANY other things, including 80s and 90s PCs and game consoles. You can find his excellent work here: http://rockybergen.com/
Here are some pictures of the end result, some on top of my keyboard and some on top of a real Amiga 1200.